a
|
a
|
Pole A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
a
|
Throw
|
Coil 1+
|
Coil 1-
|
Coil 2+
|
Coil 2-
|
Series+
|
1
|
out
|
c1
|
b1
|
gnd
|
Series-
|
2
|
out
|
d2
|
gnd
|
b2
|
Parallel+
|
3
|
out
|
gnd
|
a3
|
b3
|
Parallel-
|
4
|
out
|
gnd
|
b4
|
a4
|
Coil 1 only
|
5
|
out
|
gnd
|
nc
|
nc
|
Coil 2 only
|
6
|
nc
|
nc
|
out
|
gnd
|
*** + in phase, - out of phase
Pole A-D : This is the pole of the switch - the part that is ALWAYS connected - you are connecting the Pole TO something (a throw) Throw 1-6 : these are the 6 individual positions with different connections for each throw OUT : This is where your output will come from, think of this as a bus (an electrically common place). So you could, for instance, run a wire across most of the lugs on pole A (the top wafer of the switch). Then you could jumper a wire from C6 up there to the Out bus. Now for output, you just have to run a wire from the bus to your volume or whatever. GND : this is ground, since you might be wiring two pickups
in series, etc through another switch - Id suggest doing the bus
trick,, that way you only have 1 wire to solder to a pot and you can install/remove
the thing without having a rats nest. N.C. : No Connection - you can put these to ground, but you dont need to. Standard switches dont go to ground. Some Electrical engineers do because they are user to CMOS computer chips; for guitar its nonsense. These drawings show a "connection diagram" on the left, and the wiring of the six way 4 pole rotary availiable from Allparts. This switch is a stacked dual wafer design... |